The Lope: January 2006

Tuesday, January 31, 2006

Winter Frog

It is January and this is a frog. That is somewhat odd, I think.

Anyway, here it is, in a creek of northeast Oklahoma where the high was 60 degrees on that 29th of January.

One should always ask questions.

Is this a mature frog out of hibernation for a bit? Is it even a frog or is it a toad? Is is a baby? - which would imply that it was warm enough for eggs to hatch, tadpoles to grow and metamorphosize, and this exothermic (cold-blooded) frog to move around and seek food?

Oh well, more than question, one should always appreciate the small unexpected delights of being alive...like finding a random winter frog.





Watercress flourishes in small pool created by a recession of the creek. It has been dry so far this winter.

Many of the rocks here contain fossils. The rocks are mostly chert of the Carboniferous Period, 354 to 290 million years ago during the late Paleozoic Era. During this time, Oklahoma was south of the equator and began to drift slowly north; the state was mostly covered with a shallow sea, though some areas were briefly above sea level. Several mountain ranges arose in Oklahoma during the Carboniferous, including the Arbuckle Mountains, Wichita Mountains, Ouachita Mountains and Ozark Mountains. There was also a trend toward milder temperatures during the Carboniferous.

(below) The fan-shaped pattern towards the top center, belongs to a brachiopod. Brachiopods are hinged mollusks similar to clams.

The round impressions were left by discs that were parts of an amimal known as a Criniod. Crinoids looked roughly like a flower or a sea anemone.

At the edge of the same rock is a cast of a trilobite tail (below). Trilobites were similar in appearance to horseshoe crabs and molted their shells in three separate sections (hence: tri-lobe-ite) as they grew. I've found a few tail sections over the years but no heads or thoraxes.

The other side of the same rock displays a mold of a trilobite tail (below, near bottom of picture). All of that was on the same section of rock, about three by three inches.

Below is another rock with criniod impressions in it. At left you can see an impression left by part of a stem of the animal, which was made up of discs. At right are a couple of partial disc impressions.

There is much to think about and to explore in the world around us, and wonders everywhere, such as may be found on a short winter's walk.

Thursday, January 26, 2006

Barstow, CA

It was August 4, 2005, the sixth day of what had been a fairly leisurely road trip from Joplin, MO to Los Angeles. Since entering California the day before, we'd stuck to Rt66 whenever possible. The previous night we'd arrived in Barstow after dark and I had only shot one photo, the Cactus Motel, in Barstow before we blasted onto the interstate to get to Rialto where we already had a motel reservation we didn't want to lose. So, we drove back to Barstow on August 4 to continue west on Rt66 where we'd left off the night before. By this time, we could hear the clock ticking on this trip because we had to be in LA the next day, so, our pace sped up quite a bit.
Ace and my two ever-patient friends waited as I stopped - every block, it seemed - to shoot buildings and signs on our east-to-west drive through town. To be more informative to the Route 66 traveler, I have included links to sources with more information on these places.

The Juan Pollo restaurant chain is owned by the man who bought Roy's Motel and Cafe in Amboy this past year. As to the vehicle parked out front, the website of the Barstow Route 66 "Mother Road" Museum (we didn't visit it..too bad) offers an explanation in their coverage of a 5th anniversary Car show in June of 2005: "Albert Okura & his Juan Pollo caravan of wacky parade vehicles rode in over the First Street Bridge literally stopping the show. The crowd below watched larger than life cartoon characters Bugs Bunny, Taz and Daffy Duck riding in classics, also a crazy car boat, and an off-road truck with a mini off-road truck in the bed drive into the area. About a dozen staff members (some on roller skates) served the crowd a delicious meal of rotisserie chicken with the works."
I wouldn't be inclined to include this pic or the text, except that it *does* show an attitude of involvement on the part of Okura that I hope translates into preservation for Roy's. By the way, "Juan Pollo", in Spanish, means "Juan (or John) Chicken"...I wonder what Spanish speakers think of the personalization of the food they are about to eat.



The Village Hotel and Cafe touts air conditioning and chop suey. Los Angeles Time Machines, a really useful website, offers this review: "Talk about a hole in the wall, you could pass this place 100 times and never notice it. But it's a great slice of old Americana. It was once not only a cafe but on of those ancient 1930's hotels that has a very narrow hall way, rooms only big enough for a bed and a small bathroom down the hall. The hotel rooms are still there (and would make a great movie set!). The restaurant is a classic ultra cheap Chinese/American affair and the characters that come in here are classic small towners. Very friendly, cheap and large quantities of very non-gourmet but tasty food. A good stop on a Rt. 66 roadtrip. The current owner, Henry Wong, has been running the place since 1974, but it's a lot older than that."


There's a nice mural downtown. Barstow, by the way, was founded in 1886 when a railroad junction previously known as Waterman was re-named Barstow in honor of William Barstow Strong, Santa Fe Railroad president at that time. Settlement grew rapidly around the railroad juction, but Barstow was not incorporated as a city until 1947.


Hey, someone's mom and/or dad, wanna see what the kids were doing when they borrowed the car August 4, 2005 at 1:25PM? Thats right, they were mooning tourists who'd stopped to see your mural. That license plate number is 3JWZ771, by the way...just in case you ever decide to google the plate number of your white Ford Escort LX. Oh, here's an enhanced close-up of those little cherubs.



I'd really like to look inside the KATZ restaurant...dining and dancing...man, to have a place with good steaks and a band playing Sinatra while I dance with my pretty girlie.


The "El Rancho Motor Motel"...or "The El Rancho Motel", depending on which piece of signage you go by, is probably the best known structure in Barstow; it is certainly the most visible with its 100 foot tall neon sign. I've seen several dates given as it's year of construction. The legendsofamerica.com website places it at 1943 and says "the old motel is said to have once been frequented by the likes of Marilyn Monroe." A sign on the side of the building reads "EST. 1946." Author Tom Snyder, in his Route 66 Travelers's Guide, places it at 1947.
Geoffrey Willis, reporting for Roadsigns, the newsletter of the California Historic Route 66 Association, also placed the date as 1947 in an article in the summer, 1994 issue: "For the second time in ten years, developer Rick Byers of Newport Beach, CA has rejuvenated Barstow,s landmark El Rancho Motel. On Thursday, July 21, '94 a grand opening party complete with food, drink, and mariachis was thrown to celebrate the occasion. New furniture, carpeting, and paint are now in place in new units; and swamp coolers have replaced ailing air conditioners in most cases. The pool once again sparkles and its' grand 100 ft. high neon sign has been completely restored."
Willis continues, "It was built in 1947 entirely of railroad ties from the Tonapah and Tidewater Railroad. It served employees of the Santa Fe Railroad and travelers on Route 66 until 1979 when it was closed to the public and rented exclusively by the Santa Fe. In 1982 the Santa Fe abandoned the motel. Having lost its' major long term tenant as well as the majority of travelers to newer motels just off of I-40, El Rancho limped along until 1987 when Rick Byers, who concentrates on restoring older properties, bought it. At a cost of $400,000; it was entirely repainted, refurbished, and proudly reopened. Five short years later, however, it had declined into a state of disrepair and neglect due to ineffective management and hard times."
Willis: "In the spring of '94 Byers bought the property again and promptly poured another $300,000 into another restoration. This time is different in two major respects. El Rancho now features the Historic Route 66 Visitors Center adjacent to the motel office. There you will find maps, newsletters, and general tourist information geared specifically for those following the Mother Road. The walls are filled with colorful paintings and drawings evoking the atmosphere of the American West. No shortage of friendly and helpful assistance here either. Motel employees seem anxious to show off their new hospitality room. Each room door now displays a plaque which reads "World famous El Rancho Motel, Historic Route 66." A huge glass and neon sign in the shape of a highway shield is perched above the dining room proclaiming this historic landmark on old 66."
Willis: "The second distinguishing aspect of this renovation is the emphasis on long-term rentals. Although twenty-five poolside units will be reserved for overnight rentals, the other seventy- six units including twenty-six with kitchenettes are being promoted for senior residences. This is beneficial in two respects: 1) Re-establishing the long-term rental base lost when the Santa Fe moved out, 2) Reducing wear and tear created by transients and younger long-term renters."
The really neat (though not updated since 2000) website, Virtual Barstow, offers this to say about the El Rancho: "The ORIGINAL Barstow Motor Hotel. This has the added charm of hosting a coffee shop (now closed) the Route 66 Visitor's Center, several awesome amateur murals (check out the one on the short wall, with the pseudo-Garza Native American waifs), and besides, it's in the heart of Downtown Barstow. Located where State Highway 58 crosses US Route 66, part of the motel is now being used for senior housing but the poolside rooms are still available for rent. If you're a Route 66 explorer, go here and nowhere else."

There was an "OPEN" sign on the El Rancho coffee shop when we passed through August 4, 2005, so it looks like it re-opened.



Down Rt66 to the west just a ways, you'll see the Route 66 Motel on the right (north). On 9/29/2003, USAtoday.com posted this review in their travel section: "The rooms are clean, the rates are reasonable, and the folks are friendly." And swapping the name Barstow City Motel for the more evocative Route 66 Motel was good for business, too. The owners have "assembled an impressive collection of highway and pop culture memorabilia. Best of all, you can visit a nearby Route 66 museum in an old train station and support a town that refuses to fade into the desert." The article cites a website, www.route66motelbarstow.com, which was down at the time I posted this.
So, I gather the place changed its name and therefore the sign isn't very old...still, its cool. I've read good reviews of this place online, one dated just a few days before I posted this, so I assume its up and running.
There's a really cool panoramic view of the motel court at virtualguidebooks.com, but here are my views.




I didn't find much online about the Torches Motel, but I did spot one very dark (for my blog) tidbit. The defendent in a murder case that made it to the California Surpeme Court, was living at the Torches when he commited the crime in 1990.



The Downtown Motel was built in 1954 and is for sale at the time of this writing. For those of you who have wondered how much money a 22-room Rt66 motel might make, the reported net operating income of this one is $118,580, at least thats what the real estate listings say. If you'd like to buy it, the asking price is $1,400,000.



Los Angeles Time machines has this to say about the Palm Cafe: "This nondescript Chinese restaurant is kind of fun. While it has sort of an old feel, it's full of odds and ends for sale like Indian dolls and jewelry. What I love about it is going there Sunday morning for breakfast. The counter tends to fill up with old timer's from Barstow in Cowboy hats. These are obviously people of the original western American culture that is so rapidly disappearing. Las Vegas used to be full of true Western Americans. Now you'd be very hard pressed to find these people without a lot of inside knowledge or random luck. The true western accent of this area is also almost completely gone. I guess it's sad but inevitable given the advent of TV and the migration trends that so many subcultures of America are disappearing."



The last sign I shot in Barstow was the Desert Lodge Motel. I'd like to see it at night; I wonder if that arrow flashes in sequence?


This isn't the kind of center of gravity I like to see in the vehicle in front of me. It really was *that* tilted; compare it to the phone poles and building fronts. Rt66 arcs a bit upward in the middle here, so that increased the angle. We passed it, and continued out of town on 66, on toward Oro Grande and Victorville.

For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood

Monday, January 23, 2006

Lone Tree


This tree, about halfway to Wichita from Hutchinson, KS along Hwy 96, is the only distinctive one on the whole hour-long drive. I've admired it for 20 years, and have cringed when I've seen things nailed to it. I'd always though I should photograph it and was waiting for a circumstance.

Sunday, January 22, 2006

Racing the sun across the Mojave

Somewhere between the "just names on a map" towns of Bagdad and Siberia, an eastbound BNSF mainline skirts the edge of the Lava Hills to it's north, and The Old Trails Highway (Rt66) to it's south.

It was 6:06 PM, August 3rd, the fifth day of a roadtrip from Joplin, MO to Los Angeles. After a day that started in Williams, AZ, and included countless photo stops, we were racing the sun to see as much of California's RT66 as we could today before dark. This is ironic, because we were doing exactly the opposite of what the dust bowl refugees did; they tended to cross the desert at night to avoid overheating. My GPS told me that sunset would occur at 7:48 up the road in Barstow so I knew the time for lengthy examination of photographic targets, as I'd just done at Roy's, was over.

6:24PM: The Ludlow Coffee Shop is an interesting structure.


6:50PM: I wonder if this patch of pavement, just off the current drivable stretch, was a reststop at one time? Note the steep curb.


7:18PM: East of Newberry Springs, the westering sun dips behind thick clouds.


7:23PM, Newberry Springs: I've seen this referred to on other websites as Bagdad Hut, but I don't know what it is. It reminds me of the top of a four-gabled house that got buried.

Wagon trains coming to California in the 1850's on the old Mormon Trail used to stop nearby to take on water. Three decades later in the 1880's, the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad filled tank cars with water from Newberry Springs and hauled them to area stations and towns, thus enabling further settlement in the arid Mojave desert.

7:24PM, Newberry Springs: You can see several different generations of usage on this building. The shape of the sign identifies it as an old Whiting Brothers gas station. Sometime after that, lettering on the building seems to indicate a "Tony's Italian and American dishes." A faint "CAFE" on the right end of the sign is visible but it looks like "DRY CREEK STATION" is more recent, at left. The site is fenced off now, but on websites dated as recently as 2001 I've seen it referred to as a working service station.


7:29PM: About a fifth of a mile west lies the Bagdad Cafe, where the 1988 movie "Bagdad Cafe" was filmed. Yes, the actual town of Bagdad was a few miles back, but there is literally nothing left of it now. This cafe was built in the 1950's and was "The Sidewinder" before changing its name in 1995 to "Bagdad Cafe" to cash in on the movie.


7:31PM: Nice trailer...Airstream, I believe. It really fits well here.


7:32PM, Newberry Springs: Desolation can be a beautiful thing. I never expected to see this much standing water in the Mojave.


7:33PM, Newberry Springs: The other side of the sign reveals its name, the Motel Henning.


7:40PM, west of Newberry Springs: I'd been seeing this dirty white crust all over the ground for a few miles. This was in the area of Bristol Dry Lake (a rather saline body of water); borite is mined in this region and can appear as a residue on the ground, but informed sources tell me it was probably salt.


7:52PM, just east of Daggott: This was an experimental solar concentrator of the solar tower design; it was built as "Solar One" in 1982. By 1996, it had been upgraded and renamed "Solar Two."
This is how they worked: A large array of computer-aimed mirrors, called heliostats, focused all their light onto one central tower that contained water in the case of Solar One, and (more efficient) salt in the case of Solar Two. In either case, the superheated liquid was circulated and used to power conventional steam generators which, in turn, produced electricity. In 1999 Solar Two was decommissioned; it was converted by the University of Califonia in 2001 into an Air Cherenkov Telescope which measures gamma rays hitting the atmosphere.


7:56PM, Daggett: Dusk has arrived and its getting hard to shoot pictures. Its too bad the little lightbulbs in the Sportsmans Club sign aren't working.

The old California Inspection Station from the dustbowl days of John Steinbeck's The Grapes of Wrath was here in Daggett. There were three different ones over the years in Daggett, including the one shown in the 1939 movie version of Grapes of Wrath. When Interstate 40 was built, the Inspection Station was moved east on I-40 to Needles.

7:59PM, Daggett: This building with the oddly alpine-like curved roof dates from the 1930's and was a cafe for many years. I am told there was a Russian heritage in the area so maybe that influenced the architecture.



The day had grown short, and the exposures, long; it was now too late to do much of anything photographic that wasn't neon, so we hurtled on to Barstow on Rt66, seeing pavement in the headlights and the shadows of a landscape gliding by at our sides.

8:21PM: Cactus Motel, Barstow. This was my last photo of the day; we had started shooting at 7:37 AM mountain time in Williams, AZ, and finished at 8:21 PM Pacific time in Barstow, CA. It was time to grab food, then the Interstate and accelerate to Rialto, where we had a reservation at the Wigwam motel. We would return the next day to Barstow so we could see Rt66 in a linear sequence.


For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood

Thursday, January 19, 2006

Amboy, California

If Roy's motel and cafe look familiar to you, chances are you either research Route 66 a bit, or you've seen it in one of the movies or commercials that have utilized this location.


But Roy's is a real place, loved by Route 66 "roadies" and tended to, neglected and perhaps resurrected by a short string of owners.


The googie sign is iconic in its retro-future appearance. I've wanted to see it for years, so please forgive my dotage.


When I saw a photo of it years ago, I thought of one of the uniform insignias on the original Star Trek. It ranged from sunny to cloudy the day we were there, and my companions were most patient while I walked about the area for over an hour, often waiting in place for a cloud to move.


I've read the sign was added in 1959 to the business, which had existed at least since the 1930's. Finally, in this shot, I got my full sunlight.


The office, with its boomerang roofline complements the sign very well.




Set against the Bristol mountains, Roy's is the best-known landmark along the Needles to Barstow stretch of Route 66. Amboy road, which runs north from Twentynine Palms, intersects Rt66 here.


Roy's Motel and Cafe was the only gasoline, food and lodging stop for miles along this stretch of 66, and was known for good food and somewhat pricy gasoline. A mileage chart on the back of a Roy’s business card reportedly shows Needles 73 miles to the east and Barstow 78 miles to the west, so I imagine the transportation costs for pretty much anything were a bit high.


The entire town of Amboy, including Roy's, was once owned by Buster Burris, a well-known Route 66 personality. In 1938 Burris married Bessie Crowl, daughter of Amboy owner, Roy Crowl (for whom Roy's is named), and later Buster and Bessie became the owners of Amboy.


Burris ran Amboy until 1995. During the heyday of Roy's, after WWII and before I-40 opened in 1974, Roys employed up to 90 full-time employees to service its garage, gas station, motel and cafe. By many accounts it was quite the hopping place, with people lined up to eat, drink, gas up and use the facilities. Michael Wallis, author of Route 66, The Mother Road, quotes Burris as saying: "I used to think everybody in the world was driving through Amboy." Burris went on to comment that after I-40 opened "the traffic just plain stopped" on Route 66.


After the traffic slowed considerably, the unique appearance and the isolation of Roy's appealed to Hollywood and bits of several films, commercials, music videos and reportedly at least one porn movie were made here. A good portion of the 1986 film, The Hitcher, with Rutger Hauer, was shot here.


In 1995, Burris leased the entire town to investors Walt Wilson and Tim White. He eventually agreed to sell the town to them and died shortly after the sale closed in 2000; he was 92. Wilson and White used the town not so much to service tourists as to capitalize on its value as a shooting location for Hollywood. At least some Hollywood types liked Roy's; Amboy was often listed as a destination for private flights and Harrison Ford was known to have flown into town regularly for a burger at the café, which caused the café to be called in some printed accounts as the “Home of the Hundred-dollar Hamburger” due to the added cost of flying in.


But, as for the common Rt66 traveler, during this period, Roy's amassed mixed reviews; many people found the new owners quite inhospitable. Wilson and White attempted to sell Amboy in 2003, an effort that ultimately landed the town on Ebay in March of 2003 and grabbed headlines, but not the asking price of 1.9 million; the highest bid was $995,000. Their venture ultimately failed, and Bessie Burris reposessed Amboy from Wilson and White in February of 2005.


Shortly thereafter, Bessie Burris sold Amboy to Albert Okura, owner of the Juan Pollo Restaurant chain of California. He has stated his plans are to slowly restore and preserve the town.

I am hoping he is earnest, as when I was there on August 3rd of 2005, the place was showing signs of neglect and vandalism.


This door on one of the motel cabins had obviously been kicked in.


We had missed seeing Bessie Burris by three days. I am truly sorry as I'd loved to have met a woman with such a strong tie to the history of a Rt66 institution.


As for the town of Amboy, its one of California's oldest, dating from 1858; it has a one-room schoolhouse from the 1900s. Its economic life springs from a large chloride works that expoits the many area dry lake beds. I presume most of the plant's employees live elsewhere, because Amboy's population was listed as seven in 2003, and probably fell by two if Williams and White were counted in that total. Here, a BNSF mainline train speeds past Amboy's abandoned church.


Looking to the west from Roy's, Amboy crater can be seen in the distance.


Amboy Crater is an extinct 10,000-year-old cinder cone which lies within a 70 square kilometer lava field; it is 945 feet high, dates from the Holocene period and was designated a National Natural Landmark in 1973. A foot path leads to the top of the cone and I've read that, in addition to great views of the surrounding area, wildflowers can be seen from late January through March. You can see ridges of lava in the foreground.


The crater was quite the tourist attraction when Rt66 was more of a main highway. It was the only lava field on 66, except for one in New Mexico, and many a traveler climbed to the top merely so he/she could brag that they had entered a volcano. I have read several different versions of a story in which the crater was seen to be billowing an ominous smoke, triggering the evacuation of nearby Rt66 as well as stopping the Santa Fe railroad while everyone prepared for an eruption. The smoke turned out to be the result of a trash and tire fire started by kids from Barstow (in some accounts) and the hoax was uncovered.


Oh, just an odd, cool fact about Roy's for those of you into numbers: the address is 6666 Old National Trails Highway; National Old Trails Highway is also Route 66...thats 6666 Rt66...cool, huh?

For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood

Sunday, January 15, 2006

Orange and Blue


The full moon rises over the prairie west of Parsons, KS Saturday night.

Wednesday, January 11, 2006

Atomic Highway

On day five of our Joplin to LA trip we were well into California on Rt66. It was August 3rd; we had just passed southward under I-40 on Rt66 to begin a loop that takes old 66 a maximum distance of about 15 miles from the interstate. Rt66, also called the National Trails Highway through this part of California, won't rejoin I-40 for over 60 desolate, very hot asphalt miles that string together a small group of near ghost towns. I hadn't seen any of it and was very excited. This shield is on Rt66 just south of where it crosses under I-40.


More rain in the distance, in the Piute mountains.


The Essex post office and abandoned market next door were built out of native stone.


Essex used to have a free well, which was a big deal in the heyday of Rt66 because gas stations often charged ten cents for a glass of drinking water or a gallon of radiator water.


There is an earthen ridge on the north side of Route 66 between Essex and Amboy. Travelers have left their names, written in stones, bottles, etc. for all to see. Many were unreadable due to missing rocks but some were quite legible. I have read that this practice began in the 1970's.


I just had to make a place for "ACE". My effort was crude and we really could have used more big rocks, but I could not do so without robbing from other names. Those rocks were HOT, let me tell you; I could handle them only long enough to toss them in place.


General George C. Patton placed his Desert Training Center in this region of the Mojave Desert during WWII in order to be prepared for the conditions his tank corp would encounter when challenging Hitler's "Desert Fox", General Rommel, in North Africa. It worked beautifully for this task and, because of Patton's success, Germany was not able to acquire North African oil that might have changed the course of WWII.


The abandoned Roadrunner Cafe lies about a mile and a half west of Chambless.


That sign is worth a closer look.


Looking back east from the Roadrunner, one gains a magnificent view of Cadiz Summit in the Marble Mountains.


This is the view opposite from the above picture - looking west from the Roadrunner toward the Bristol Mountains. We may owe the continued existance of all of the Bristol Mountains, in part, to the Russians.
Why? Well, thereby hangs a tale.
In the early 1963, the Atomic Energy Commission and the California Department of Transportation planned to use 22 full-scale nuclear bombs to vaporize a corridor through the mountains north of Route 66 for the new Interstate 40. It was called Project Carryall.

According to Tom Snyder in his "Route 66 Traveler's Guide": "Incomprehensibly, the plan goes foreward and officials from the federal government, Santa Fe Railway and Caltrans are busy deciding where to put the reviewing stand and VIP seating. There is no record of anyone giving thought to the consequences of the blast for people living in nearby communities. But the officials did have their reviewing-stand decorations all picked out."
According to Snyder, the plan was stopped when the Russians signed the 1963 Nuclear Test Ban Treaty.

As is so wonderfully common on Rt66, the old Santa Fe (now BNSF) mainline runs parallel to Route 66. The train is going the same way we are, toward Amboy and the legendary Roy's Cafe.


For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood

Sunday, January 08, 2006

Gas - Food - Concrete Nudes

August 3, 2005: From Needles we departed west on I-40 for a few miles, which was paved over 66 in this area. For the first time on this trip (day five), we were on road nobody in our party had ever covered. We had already entered the Mojave desert some time before, but without the Colorado River and the civilization of Needles, it began to truly look and feel like desert.


We had intended to take Rt66 at the next opportunity but were not able to do so, having been warned away by signs that informed us the road was impassable due to flood damage. Yes, floods in the Mojave desert; there has been an unusual amount of rain here the last couple years. We exited I-40 and headed north on Mountain Springs Road in order to intercept Rt66 at Goffs so that we could drive at least part of this loop. This is Goff's Butte on Mountain Springs Road.


Goffs is the largest settlement along this stretch. Its practically a ghost town but this closed general store still hosts an ice machine.


We could see some of that unseasonable rain in the mountains. This stretch of 66 is the pre-1931 alignment; it was used quite a bit even after the newer 66 was made to the south because it had a 2% grade as opposed to the newer alignment's 5% grade.


At the end of this 66 loop, where it curves back to the south to cross I-40 near Fenner, lies Naja's Food and Drink Garden, a somewhat different convenience store.


It was a bit warm inside Naja's, but the help was friendly.


Prices are higher for many things out here; the reason given is the remoteness of the area, which is believable.


Customers dressed for the desert are seen through a wall of aquariums in the store.


Outside, the store is ringed with statues and landscaping.


Stark white statues of naked women are not unheard of along Rt66; I had seen one in Kingman, AZ.


These birds were in abundance. I don't know what they are, but their shrill calls were like nothing I'd heard. I'd welcome an ID from a bird enthusiast.


After downing a couple cold sport drinks and buying some water, we set off into the desert again.


For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood

Friday, January 06, 2006

Needles, CA on Rt66

After crossing the Colorado River on August 3, we began our Rt66 California adventure. The previous four days of this trip had been spent primarily on Interstate 40 with some stretches of Rt66 thrown in, but from now on it was to be 66 all the way to the Pacific coast. On our way from the Colorado River to Needles, we passed over this neat double mainline; it'd be great to catch a train photo here.


We found it curious that nobody was working the agricultural inspection station; a sign instructed us to drive right on through.


A typical Mojave desert scape, just outside Needles.


We had been as far West as Needles before, earlier in the year, but there was more of Needles to be seen. Fans of the late cartoonist Charles Schulz will smile to see that Snoopy's brother and Needles resident, Spike, has a road named after him. Needles also has a Schulz road, and the two intersect.


I had photographed this sign for the 66 Motel before, but not the motel.




If one were of a mind to watch trains, the vintage cabins of the Palms Motel (now apartments) would be a good bet.




The El Garces Harvey House and train depot was completed by 1908 and replaced another station that was destroyed by fire. It was named after a Spanish Padre who visited the area in 1776 and, like La Posada (also here and here), was one of the Fred Harvey Houses that were built to serve tourists, primarily rail passengers, along the Santa Fe in the southwest. Since returning from this trip, I have read that its more ornate side faced the tracks because its main purpose was to serve rail passengers. I'll have to walk around and look, should I find myself in Needles again.
The El Garces ceased to be a Harvey House in 1949, and was used as offices for the Santa Fe Railroad until 1988 when it was closed and began to deteriorate.

Some rennovation has occurred on the structure, primarlily due to the efforts of The Friends of El Garces, which was formed in 1993. The Friends of El Garces does not seem to have its own website, but you can read more about it here and here.

I found a few more nice signs in Needles this time.








China Garden was probably built as a Denny's, as it has the characteristic boomerang roofline. The swiss-cheese cylinder is a nice googie touch.


I've seen a few of this chain, Best Chalet Inns, in the Southwest.


I was delighted to see a bit of middle 20th century "googie" architecture...a hint of what I'd find in LA a few days later. The tapering pylon, the diagonal support and the suspended roof are all hallmarks of googie, named for a now-defunct diner in LA.


Previous post on this Route 66 trip: "This here's the bones of a country"

Next post on this Route 66 trip: Gas, Food, Concrete Nudes

For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood

Tuesday, January 03, 2006

"This here's the bones of a country"


Before embarking on the August, 2005 driving trip to California, we read Steinbeck's "The Grapes of Wrath" to fully appreciate the impact the Colorado River crossing had on the dust bowl immigrants of the 1930s. Untold numbers of "Okies" fled the parched, exhausted soil of large parts of Oklahoma and Kansas seeking jobs in the promised land of California. Most were disappointed.

We crossed it shortly after noon on August 3, 2005, and saw what the modern traveler sees: the concrete bridge of I-40 beneath, and a railroad trestle to the North as one leaves Arizona and enters California.
But the Okies traversed a more elegant structure. The Old Trails Arch Bridge was in service from 1916 until the newer Red Rock Bridge was opened in 1947. Sometime after the new bridge opened, the Old Trails Arch Bridge was converted to support a gas line across the Colorado River, a purpose it still serves.

As for its replacement, the old 1947 Red Rocks Bridge was abandoned in 1966 when I-40 replaced it, and was torn down in 1976. Only concrete footings remain today of this bridge across the Colorado River.

After crossing into California, you can exit onto National Trails Highway (Rt66) and follow 66 towards the river. After passing under the railroad bridge and I-40...

...the old road ends at the Colorado River near the old footings from the Red Rock Bridge and the old Historic 66 Billboard. This billboard used to read "Breathe Deeply Folks", advising travelers that they were about to enter Arizona. Today it advises travelers on I-40 to turn right at the next exit for Historic Route 66.

Despite the intrusion of a few leisure craft, and the fact that this stretch of 66 along the Colorado is really quite pretty, Steinbeck weighs heavily on one's mind at this place:

"They drove to Topack...Then across the bridge into the broken rock wilderness. And although they were dead weary and the morning heat was growing, they stopped.
Pa called, 'We're there - we're in California!' They looked dully at the broken rock glaring under the sun, and across the river the terrible ramparts of Arizona.
'We got the desert,' said Tom. 'We got to get to the water and rest.'
The road runs parallel to the river, and it was well into the morning when the burning motors came to Needles, where the river runs swiftly among the reeds.
The Joads and the Wilsons drove to the river, and they sat in the cars looking at the lovely water flowing by, and the green reeds jerking slowly in the current
."


From this stretch of old 66, you can see the mountains that gave the nearby town of Needles its name; again, from The Grapes of Wrath:

"They lay in the water and looked at the sharp peaks called Needles, and at the white rock mountains of Arizona.
'We came through them', Pa said in Wonder
."



"And Tom, looking at the ragged peaks across the river and the Needles downstream: 'Never seen such tough mountains. This here's a murder country. This here's the bones of a country.'"



For our entire July-August 2005 Rt66/I-40 trip, see:
Joplin to Amarillo
Amarillo to Holbrook
Holbrook to Winslow
La Posada
Grand Canyon
Seligman
western AZ

From the California border onward, we stayed to Route 66:
Colorado River crossing
Needles
Needles to Fenner
Fenner to Amboy
Amboy
Amboy to Barstow
Barstow
Barstow to Victorville
Victorville - California Route 66 Museum
Victorville to Rialto
Rialto Wigwam Motel
Outer Los Angeles
Los Angeles
Santa Monica Pier

Other posts concerning California:
The Future was so Cool in 1961
Goodbye, Sam's Seafood